The 6 Features I Always Include in Handmade Clothes
Hi there sewing friends !
You know that moment when you finish a sewing project, hold it up proudly… and then it just sits in your wardrobe for months? Yep, been there too many times. Over the years of sewing (both on and off camera), I’ve realised there are a few key features I need in my clothes for them to become go-to pieces—not just pretty projects for Instagram. So today, as I work on a beautiful chartreuse gathered skirt, I thought I’d walk you through the six design details I now always include when sewing for myself. Spoiler alert: it’s made all the difference in creating a handmade wardrobe I actually wear.
Let’s dive in !
Pockets. Always.
Let’s get one thing straight—if it does not have pockets, I will not wear it. I’m constantly on the go, often walking with my phone in hand, and if a garment doesn’t give me a place to stash it, it gets left behind. I always go for deep side seam pockets—big enough to spread my hand out inside. Trust me, pocket placement matters too! I once added them too low, and they landed around mid-thigh, which made them super awkward to use. Lesson learned: test the height before sewing them in. Big, functional pockets = instant love.
Lowered Armholes for Knit Garments
If you’ve ever worn a tight knit top and felt like your armpits were being pinched by the fabric, you’ll get this one. For any fitted knit pieces like turtlenecks or tees, I always lower the armholes by about 2–3 cm. It makes the fit more comfortable, allows for layering, and best of all—reduces visible sweat stains. It’s such a small adjustment, but it makes a huge difference in how often I reach for the garment.
Waist Ties or Cinching Details
As someone with an hourglass shape, I love when garments highlight the waist. If I don’t add some kind of cinch—like an external waist tie or internal elastic—I end up looking like a letterbox. 😂 Waist ties are easy to add with a simple fabric strip, and they instantly add shape and style. I’ve done both internal channels with elastic and external fabric ties, but I lean towards external ones because they suit the styles I like to make. Plus, they're easier to add after the fact if you're modifying an existing pattern.
Bra-Friendly Strap Width
This one’s for my fellow bigger-bust gals: spaghetti straps are not the vibe when you have to wear a bra. I always make sure that the straps on my dresses and tops are wide enough to cover bra straps comfortably. It’s such a small detail, but it really affects how confident and comfortable I feel wearing a garment. And let’s be honest, no one wants a rogue black strap peeking out from under a soft pastel top—it’s just not the look.
A Thick Hem
When I say I sew for longevity, I mean it. I always add a thick hem to my skirts and dresses. Not only does it help the garment hang beautifully, but it also gives me flexibility—I can easily unpick the hem and adjust the length later if needed. Thick hems are also a game-changer for repairs. If your garment gets a tear near the bottom, you’ve got built-in extra fabric ready to go. Bonus points for sustainability!
Zero Waste Design (Where Possible)
This current skirt I’m sewing is technically a zero-waste design (aside from the curved pocket bag), and I love how intentional it feels. Zero waste sewing means using up every bit of your fabric—minimising scraps and making sure nothing goes to landfill. When I realised I had just a tiny bit of fabric left, I added that into my hem to avoid leftover scraps. In hindsight, I wish I’d saved a bit for a matching scrunchie or waist tie, but that’s a tip for next time!
Final Thoughts: Sew What You’ll Wear
I used to make things just for the sake of creating—without asking myself if I’d actually wear them. Gorgeous gingham dresses, puffy sleeves, square necklines… but they’ve only been worn a handful of times. Now, I sew with purpose. These six features have become my non-negotiables, and they help ensure the hours I spend sewing lead to pieces I love and live in.
If you're new to sewing or building your handmade wardrobe, my advice is this: pay attention to the clothes you reach for, and the ones you avoid. Then design your sewing projects around you—your lifestyle, your comfort, your joy.
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