Joining the “No Toile” club, was it worth it?
Hi there sewing friends !
Let’s talk about the skirt I made last week—because oh my goodness, she’s a beauty, but she taught me a lot. If you’ve ever skipped making a toile (a sewing mock-up) because you were just too excited to get started, then this post is for you.
I’ve been sewing for over 20 years, have a degree in pattern making and fashion design, and STILL find myself falling into the trap of “it’ll be fine” more often than I’d like to admit. Spoiler alert: sometimes it’s not fine—but sometimes, it kinda is. So here’s what really happened when I made a high-waisted chartreuse wrap skirt without a toile and what I learned along the way.
First up… what is a toile?
For anyone new to sewing or just diving into garment making, a toile (also known as a muslin) is a mock-up of your final project made with inexpensive fabric. It helps you sort out the fit, style, and construction order before you cut into your beautiful final fabric. Think of it like a dress rehearsal—but for your outfit.
I always say, “Do a toile!” But this time? I didn’t. I went rogue.
Skipping the toile—and how it almost worked
I used a gorgeous cotton drill I had picked up months ago. It’s a beautiful chartreuse that matches my wardrobe and home perfectly. I actually had a vision for this skirt and knew the moment I remembered this fabric—it was the one.
Now, I had made this pattern before, so I figured I could wing it. And you know what? It turned out okay. But there were so many things that would have been smoother if I’d done a toile. From fabric amounts to pocket placements, here’s where it started to unravel a bit.
What I wish I did differently
1. Measure fabric more accurately - I didn’t have enough fabric to make the skirt exactly how I wanted it. I ended up piecing together parts of the waistband and pockets. A toile would’ve told me exactly how much fabric I needed. Lesson learned.
2. Use lining strategically - I had to dig through my stash for pocket linings, which didn’t match the skirt fabric. If I had planned this properly, I could have made the interior just as beautiful as the outside.
3. Avoid fabric cutting errors - Because I skipped the toile and rushed, I cut into my fabric incorrectly and had to re-stitch things back together. That was stressful—and could’ve been avoided.
4. Placket placement mistake - I accidentally fused the interfacing to the right side of the fabric. Which meant I had to sew the wrong side out for the rest of the placket so it would all match. You can’t tell unless you look closely, but I know—and it bugs me.
Let’s talk waistband: why I drafted my own
Here’s one part I did do intentionally. I made a custom curved waistband to fit my hourglass figure better. Most waistbands are straight, but I wanted something that hugged my body just right and didn’t create bulk when worn with fitted tops. It took more fabric and more thought, but it was worth it. (Even if I did have to piece it together due to fabric shortage 🙃)
Gathering method: The train tracks technique
I used the train track method for gathering, where you sew two rows of long basting stitches (at 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm), then gather and stitch between them. This gave me beautiful, even gathers… except at the bulky seam areas. But hey, now the pockets are easier to access—so maybe that was a happy accident!
My favorite part? The “No Toile Club” label
Even though I skipped the toile, I did get to use one of my favorite labels from Kylie and the Machine: “No Toile Club.”Honestly, the chaos of this project made it the perfect match. There’s something fun and freeing about not over-planning, even if you hit a few bumps along the way.
Final thoughts (aka: please make a toile)
made the pattern before. A toile helps with fit, fabric needs, sewing order, and helps you avoid stress, waste, and unpicking. That said, sometimes you just need to ride the wave of inspiration—and that’s what I did with this skirt. Despite the bumps, I love how it turned out. It’s swishy, it has pockets, and it tells a story. Next time I’ll plan better. Probably. Maybe. We’ll see 😅 Until then, happy sewing—and remember, your sewing journey doesn’t have to be perfect to be worth sharing.
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