Sewing Different Fabric Types: Satin, Stretch, and Heavy Fabrics (Without the Stress!)
Hi there sewing friends !
Have you ever sat down at your machine, excited to sew something new… only to end up staring at a puckered seam, tangled threads, and a serious case of "what on earth is going wrong?" Yep. Same.
This week I’ve been deep in my feels about sewing motivation (aka sewjo), and I realised what’s been missing: sewing projects that actually fit my current lifestyle and style. I work in an office most days now, and I want to wear things I feel proud of—things I’ve made with my own two hands. So naturally… my mind turned to a raincoat I’ve been dreaming about for years. And yes, I already have the perfect fabric.
But before I get too ahead of myself, I wanted to chat about something every sewist deals with: learning how to sew different types of fabrics. Because let me tell you, working with satin, stretch knits, or thick denim all requires a totallydifferent approach.
So here’s a little breakdown of what I’ve learned over the years—plus my best tips so you can sew with confidence, no matter what fabric you’re working with
Sewing with Satin
Satin looks dreamy but can be sneaky to sew. That beautiful sheen? It means the fabric is slippery and delicate. Here's how to make the process a little smoother:
Use a sharp needle – Swap your universal needle for a sharp or microtex needle. A fresh, fine point will glide betweenthe fibers instead of dragging or snagging them.
Good scissors matter – I love using my Clover scissors with tiny teeth along the bottom blade. They gently grip satin while cutting so nothing shifts around mid-snip. Game changer.
Choose the right pins – Delicate fabrics deserve delicate pins. I use Berry Pins from Birch (finer than your standard pin). And I keep my “good” pins separate—trust me, it’s worth it.
Sewing with Stretch Fabrics
If you're sewing with jersey, merino, ribbing, or any knit fabric, here's what you need to know:
Walking foot = your bestie – This magical foot helps feed the fabric evenly so it doesn’t get eaten by your machine. I don’t use one personally because I have an overlocker, but if you’re sewing knits on a standard machine, it’s a lifesaver.
Zigzag or stretch stitches – Straight stitches on knits? A recipe for popped seams. A zigzag allows the fabric to stretch without snapping your thread.
Ballpoint needles – These slip between fibers without piercing them, preventing skipped stitches and fabric damage. Essential.
Optional: stretch thread – I’ve experimented with elasticated thread like Metler’s. It can work, but you’ll get the best results paired with a walking foot to help feed the fabric smoothly.
Sewing with Heavyweight Fabrics
Let’s talk denim, wool, canvas—the thick stuff that tends to intimidate beginners (and me, to be honest).
Topstitching tips – Only use topstitching thread in the top of your machine, never in the bobbin! I learned this the hard way five years ago… and almost broke my machine 😅
Adjust your stitch length – Longer stitches (around 3–3.5) look more balanced on thick fabric and reduce tension issues.
Use a leather or denim needle – These are strong enough to pierce through layers without bending or snapping.
Heavy-duty pins + sharp scissors – Thicker pins help you manage tough fabrics, and sharp shears (like my weighty LDH scissors) make cutting way easier and way more accurate.
Bonus Tips for Tricky Fabrics
If you're tackling fabrics like silk, chiffon, velvet, or fur, here are a few tricks I’ve picked up:
Use spray starch or lightweight fusing strips to stabilize seams on slippery or sheer fabric
Sew with tissue paper underneath to help feed delicate fabric evenly, then tear it away
Try clear matte tape on the back of slippery seams to stop sliding (yes, really!)
A Final Thought...
If you’re feeling frustrated sewing with new fabrics, you’re not alone. Every sewist has been there (even if they pretend they haven’t 😉). It’s not about perfection—it’s about learning what works and building up that sewing toolkit over time.
I’ve got projects in my sewing room that have been half-finished for two years. You’re doing fine. Truly.
And yes… I’m still going to make that raincoat.
See you in the next post!
Live, laugh, love, and learn to sew 🐰
Annie xx