Fabric First or Pattern First? Let’s Chat About It 🧵
Hi there sewing friends !
If you’ve ever found yourself holding a dreamy fabric in one hand and a stack of patterns in the other, wondering which should come first — you’re not alone. It’s one of the most common questions I get from beginner sewists: Do I choose the fabric first or the sewing pattern?
After years of sewing (and collecting more fabric than I care to admit 🙃), I’ve discovered there's no one-size-fits-all answer. So let’s chat about it — from both sides!
Pattern First: The Logical Approach
When I first started sewing, I was a firm believer in choosing the sewing pattern first. That way, you can figure out:
How much fabric you’ll need
What fabric type is recommended (e.g. cotton, knit, silk)
Any special notions or finishes to prepare for
It makes sense, especially for beginners learning how to follow sewing patterns step-by-step. Having all the details upfront means fewer surprises later.
But…
Why I Now Often Choose Fabric First 🧵
These days, I’ve flipped the script. I often find myself choosing fabric first, especially when I stumble across something rare or beautiful — and here’s why:
1. I Know My Style (and My Wardrobe) After years of sewing my own clothes, I know what I wear. I know my colour palette. I know what silhouettes feel good on my body. That makes choosing fabric a joy — because when I see something that screams me, I know it will be worn for years.
Like my favourite black turtleneck — I’ve worn it every winter for six years, and it’s still going strong. It’s those well-loved pieces that remind me why sewing thoughtfully matters.
2. Rare or Specialty Fabrics Don’t Wait. When I worked in a fabric store, I saw how quickly beautiful fabrics disappear. If you find something like a Liberty silk with sequins or a high-quality windproof nylon for a raincoat, snap it up. These fabrics are seasonal, limited, and often never restocked.
One time, I found a raincoat fabric in 2019 — and didn’t see anything similar again until 2025. Six years! That’s why I tell sewists: if it’s a specialty fabric and you love it, buy it first.
3. Fabric Sparks Ideas Sometimes, the fabric itself inspires the project. A bold floral print might become a wrap dress. A cozy wool plaid could turn into a Nova coat. A floaty deadstock silk panel? The perfect special-occasion playsuit.
When you lead with the fabric, your creativity gets to play
Fabric Shopping Tips from a Recovering Fabric Hoarder
Here are some of my tried-and-true fabric shopping strategies:
Know your go-to makes. I always buy 2–3 metres of fabric I love — perfect for a top, dress, or pants.
Overbuy for pattern matching. Especially for checks, stripes, or bold prints.
Check the composition. A 100% merino will keep you warmer than a poly-blend. Choose based on how you’ll use the garment.
Think about drape and structure. Use floaty fabric for gathered skirts or blouses, and firmer fabrics for tailored pieces.
Test stretch for garments like leggings or turtlenecks. A good 2-way or 4-way stretch makes all the difference.
Pattern-First Still Has Its Place
Choosing your pattern first makes sense when:
You’re sewing with a commercial pattern that has specific requirements
You need to budget your fabric shopping
You’re working with structured designs that require exact fabric types (e.g. tailored jackets, formalwear)
It’s also a great approach if you’re still building your fabric knowledge and want more guidance from the pattern instructions.
Why Not Both?
Sometimes, the best approach is a blend. You might:
Buy a fabric you love, then browse your pattern stash for inspiration
Choose a pattern you’re excited about, then wait until the perfect fabric crosses your path
Let your sewing stash evolve naturally over time, building your fabric and pattern library to draw from when creativity strikes
Final Thoughts: Sew What Works for You
Whether you start with the pattern or the fabric, the most important thing is to sew garments you love and will actually wear. Slow fashion is about thoughtful, intentional sewing, and that includes making the most of your stash, using what you have, and learning from past projects.
So, what do you choose first — fabric or pattern? Let me know in the comments!
Until next time,
Happy sewing!
Annie xx